It’s really thick, kind of the consistency of cake batter. The material is mixed with the supplied stirrer and a power drill. The sound control (SC) product is always applied first. Sounds more complicated than it really is. So for the cockpit, where I did SC on one day and CI on the second day, I added a second layer of tape over these specific edges that I pulled after day 1, and then pulled the first layer after day 2. The material is too thick and too tough to pull once dry. you need to pull the tape before it dries. For flat masked edges, like on some of the panels, around the transmission tunnel cover, etc. Note that the material goes on in several coats. I used mainly blue masking tape and paper, foil around some of the irregular shapes, and then a drop cloth tightly sealed around the areas not coated. Would have been a little easier if I hadn't already installed the pedal box, but that's OK. The Lizard Skin materials fill very well. In hindsight, I may not have needed to be quite so picky about sealing every little crack or joint. only selected sides, and the price was very reasonable. Note that my powder coater quoted the same price for my build doing all sides of everything vs. What I couldn’t reach with the DA I did by hand. A little hard to take a DA and 80 grit paper to my nice powder coat, but there's still plenty showing elsewhere. Then roughed up all the surfaces where the Lizard Skin is applied. So first I sealed all the gaps and openings in the aluminum panels (around seat belt mountings, roll bar stubs, foot boxes along the 4 inch tube, etc.) with aluminum tape and seam sealer. But if a glossy surface, should be roughed up a little to stick well. The Lizard Skin instructions say it can be applied directly to bare metal, a primed surface, or a freshly painted surface. So in my opinion, Lizard Skin is a good value.Īll the panels on my Mk4 build are powder coated gloss black. And keep in mind I’m doing both the cockpit and the trunk area. There are cheaper solutions out there, but there are also some that are much more expensive. Next time around will be $80 or so cheaper because won’t need the installation kit. A 2 gallon bucket of each product (SC and CI) plus the installation kit was just over $350 shipped. Fresh material is important, and what I received was only a month or so old. But the best price I found was a seller on eBay, Don Hart’s Radiator Service. They sell an installation kit that includes a stirrer, undercoating type spray gun and a thickness gauge. While the instructions say that brushing or rolling is possible, they really don’t recommend it. Lizard Skin sells two products: Sound control (SC) and ceramic insulation (CI). Plus the Lizard Skin seals everything up really well, and is relatively thin so doesn’t take away much valuable space. cutting and fitting for me was a positive. I have used some of the other stick on products (Dynamat specifically) and while they also work very well, I wanted to do both the cockpit and the trunk areas, and didn’t really want to fit, peel and stick that much. After a little investigation, decided to use Lizard Skin for this build as well. Late last year I bought the Mk4 referenced above several months after the original owner picked it up at Factory Five. Granted, this was a small block build, so clearances are reasonable. Sound was well controlled and heat in the footboxes has never been an issue. I was impressed with how it looked, how durable it was, and how it worked once I had the car finished and on the road. The builder, a professional fabricator, had already applied Lizard Skin to the complete cockpit area. I purchased my Mk3 several years ago as a roller. Especially something is needed in the footbox areas since the exhaust headers are basically wrapped around them. 040 aluminum panels do not isolate sound or heat very well if left plain. One thing we can agree on, I think, is that something is required. And there is a wide variation in cost and application methods. There are lots of choices out there for sound and heat insulation for our builds. Sorry it's a little long, but hopefully enough details to be helpful. This thread is intended to give my experience with Lizard Skin, and not a debate about what product is better. I received a suggestion to do a more detailed thread on just this subject, so here goes. I posted a brief description and some pictures in my build thread here: Yesterday I wrapped up the Lizard Skin application in my Mk4 build.
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